When I was 18, I did a trip back to French Polynesia, where I was born. I went alone, and had a couple of surfboards especially for this trip. There’s a text-book right hand reef break that’s literally the kind of wave I would draw when I was young in the back of my school...
About Me
Far far away, behind the word mountains, far from the countries Vokalia and Consonantia, there live the blind texts. Separated.
